Published: January 30, 2017; updated: October 24, 2017
It is very hard to go wrong with anti-seize. I anti-seize pretty much everything that is, or can be, exposed to elements, including:
- Fasteners in the engine bay or under the car. This includes engine to transmission bolts and subframe bolts.
- Alignment eccentric bolts on Miatas.
- Brake bleeder screw threads.
- Brake caliper and backet bolts.
- Wheel studs. Anti-seize on the studs does not seem to attract dirt, even on the extended ARP studs. One does need to be careful not to drop lug nuts into dirt because it will stick to them then.
- All exhaust fasteners including lock nuts.
I do not apply anti-seize to:
- Fasteners on which thread locker application is specified.
- Flywheel bolts.
Aluminum Vs Nickel
I use Permatex 80078 alimunum-based anti-seize for most of my anti-seizing needs including everything not exposed to high temperatures and brake fasteners. This lubricant is advertised at working up to 1600 degrees.
I also have Jet-Lube Nikal nickel-based anti-seize which is advertised at working up to 2600 degrees. I generally use this on exhaust fasteners.
I found the nickel-based anti-seize to seemingly dry off quicker when applied to, for example, brake bolts. I'm not sure if this is because I apply less of it due to the smaller brush size or the compound in fact drying off faster. I am also not sure if this drying off is a problem - perhaps the compound continues to work when it is dry.