I am going to try to explain the steps I follow in order to swap the D16Z6 into my 1990 Civic STD. This applies to any 88-91 Civic (4G) or CRX. This procedures worked for me. Use this as reference on ur own risk. If u dont know what I mean by STD, its the Standard version of the 88-91 Civic HB that its not either a DX or Si. A way to identify it is because it comes with a 4 speed tranny. I got most of my info from the web, good sites like www.hybrid-k.com (in the archives) and Hasport and some others wich I cant remember bc they are a lot. Use www.google.com search engine, it will give u some good places full of info.

I bought my engine from one of my friends who just did a B16A2 swap into his 93 EX civic (thanxs a lot brett!) I got the engine for 130. I managed to get the engine tuned up and clean while I had it out, I then did a compression test and I found that the #2 cyl had only 125 psi. I knew something was wrong, either bad valve seats, broken valves, piston rings, or cracks, or something. So I decided to rebuild the engine at that point and then swap it in. Then I slowly started getting the engine apart and rebuilding it on my backyard. Make sure everything its ok. Check for everything. its good to check the timing belt, water pump,.cracks, valve, gaskets, seals, etc. Its easier to work on it while u still have it out.

Before u start ur swap u need to figure out what parts u need, and what route u going towards.If u got a Si u can use ur stock ECU and Dizzy.IF u have a DX or STD u need to convert it to MPFI as in the SI. After that its taken care off, u then choose if u wanna stay OBDO or wanna go OBDI. If u choose to go OBDI, theres a few places to get it. Theres a ugy in honda-tech.com on the CRX/EF froum who does them(Blown90Hatch, email Turbo_EK@yahoo.com,), or www.locashracing.com, www.hasport.com. Going OBDI its going to require a lot of rewire, besides the converioin of the existing wires u need to add a VTEC, VTEC press swith, Knock sensor, and oil temp. All this hassle if done right will pay off better on the performance of the car. Odds are that something its going to go wrong. try to keep it simple. Zdyne (www.zdyne.com) offers a one wire conversion wich its in my opinion a great and easy way to have that engine running. If u using a STD or DX u need a Si dizzy, ECU, Inyectors, and injectors resistor. Dont use ur 92-00 inyectors because they will fry. I fried 2 injectors off the 93 Si. The 4G injectors are 1.5-3.5 ohms, while others are 10-13 ohms.. they work but they will not last more than 2 weeks.I used the 5G intake manifold, its bigger and has al the same sensors as the 4G one.

Once I finished rebuilding it, then I decided to get my SH%^ togheter and go and swap it. Since I dont wanted to have any performance shop do it, I had a friend who works on a shop, and we took a day just for my swap (thanxs a lot adrian!!)

The first thing we did was drain all the fluids. Then we manage to start unplugging everything and removing my old nasty D15B1 engine. Once I got everything out, the next step was to clean the engine bay a little. Then the next step its to transfer the Driver side engine mount from the old D15B1 into the D16Z6. Not the bushing, the part of the mount that its on the engine block. At this time transfer the alternator, the engine harness from the B1 to the Z6,(some plugs might not work, they are like 3 of them) and get ready to put that baby back in the engine bay.The mounts needed on this engine are the same ones u had on the old engine. Since both engines are D series, they mount as a direct bolt on.

Since my budget was tight as the moment I used my old D15B1 4 speed tranny until I can get a hold of an 4G Si tranny. When u put the tranny on the engine to mount it in, use the 5G clutch since it has a bigger clutch, and holds a few more hundred more psi than the B1. Note: If u have an 88 CRX or Civic, note that the clutch that year has a spindle that contains one extra tooth on the tranny shaft, u gotta use the Stock 88 clutch if u using the 88 tranny. Time to start getting the Z6 into the engine. Removing the radiator its going to be easier and u might prevent from braking it while u installing the new engine. After the engine its installed, its fun time. Time to start the wiring. The first mod on the wiring its to convert the Dual Point Fuel Injection (DPFI) system to Multi Point Fuel Injection (MPFI). First u need an injector resistor. Any honda Resistor works since they are all 6 ohms. I am not going to list all the details since they are a little long. If u want the info email me or go to hybrid honda and find the DX to ZC wiring conversion. to make that conversion quick and easy here, go as follows. U will need 4 inyector plugs, the resistor box, the 4 inyectors, wire and shrink wrap. Injector resistor has 5 cables, 4 same color and 1 different(colors may vary depending what car it came off. The A3 pin off the ecu goes to inyector #2(red wire), the A7 ecu pin goes to injectror #4 (yellow wire), the ecu pin A1 goes to injector #1 (brown), and the ecu Pin A5 goes to injector #3(light blue). Then install both yellow/black cables off the engine harness to the 1 lonely color cable on the resistor.Then each of the 4 cables (of the same color)of the resistor to each injector. After getting the resistor box, the injectors, and all the plugs installed on the Intake manifold its time to play with the Distribuitor wiring. Again I got all the info on the wiring, to make things simple, the 7 cables on the distribuitor go as follows.

orange goes to B10
white goes to B12
orange/blue goes to C3
white/blue goes to C4
blue/ green goes to C1
blue yellow goes to C2

This is the hardest part of wiring of the whole swap. Just wiring the 4G Si dizzy into the harness and converting the DPFI to MPFI. If u got the CRX HF or civic Si u can skip the wiring. Just concentrate on making the Distribuitor fit. I used the 89 CRX distribuitor. I had to modify 2 of the legs of the distribuitor in order for it to fit the engine. Just 2 legs are able to hold down the dizzy. I used a 88 CRX Si ECU (PM6) . Any PM6 computer will work, but it will be better to have a 88-89 Integra ECU (PG7) wich has a higher redline and better fuel map.

Next its to figure out how to make VTEC kick. Disregard this if u get a ZDyne 1 Wire ECu. I really recomend these. I wish I had the money for one of those. All depends on ur budget, u can use an APEXI v-afc, the Fields VTEC controler, MSD RPM Activated switch, toggle swith, anyways, theres tons of ways. Since my budget was tight I decided to go MSD switch. The MSD RPM switch part number its PN 8950 and I used the modules kit PN 8744. I have the Switch set to kick VTEC @ 4600. The first cam lobe gives power up to around 4600, after that it looses power, so I decided to have VTEC kicking in right when the lobe isnt doing any more power. Follow the MSD instructions to install the switch, except that u need to use a car relay with that since the switch provides GND and VTEC needs a 12V+ signal. U use all the cables except the gray oine of the switch. If u get the relay I am going to give the pin outs since the relays are not too explained.

Relay (5 pin or 4 pin one)
87 goes to VTEC solenoid
86 goes to the red on MSD switch
85 goes to yellow on MSD switch
30 goes to a 12V+

Now that u have everything set and done its time to test ur new Hybrid. I do feel VTEC kickin in, and I do hear the sound changing once VTEC kicks. This its kinda good since normally u never hear or feel any difference on the 5G and 6G civic EX's and Si's SOHC VTEC engines. I am very happy with the results. The engine pills nice and runs smooth. In my opinion it was worthed the swap. Specially makes me feel very proud and I feel it was well worthed compared to the old B1 and others 4G Si's around I have drove.